Six courses where Japanese tradition meets contemporary creativity
At HASHIRI, the seasons take centre stage. Set within The Athenee Hotel, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Bangkok, the contemporary Japanese restaurant presents a tasting menu that allows premium ingredients to lead the story — while giving the chef plenty of room to reinterpret them in unexpected ways.
The name HASHIRI itself is rooted in Japanese culinary culture, referring to the first harvest or the first catch of the season. It is an idea that carries through the menu, where ingredients are selected according to their seasonality and treated with a balance of precision, creativity and respect for their natural character.
The six-course tasting menu begins with Ankimo Ice Cream, an intriguing opening that immediately challenges expectations. Monkfish liver, or ankimo, is traditionally enjoyed as a savoury delicacy, but here it is transformed into ice cream and paired with watermelon and monaka.
The rich, creamy character of ankimo meets the refreshing sweetness of watermelon, while the monaka adds a delicate crunch. It is an unconventional combination, but one that works surprisingly well — playful enough to catch your attention without becoming overly complicated.
Next comes Uni & Crab, bringing together Bafun Uni, King Crab, Granny Smith and Oscietra Caviar.
On paper, it sounds like a collection of luxurious ingredients, but the appeal lies in how each element contributes to the balance of the dish. The sweetness and richness of the uni and crab are lifted by the crisp acidity of Granny Smith apple, while Oscietra Caviar adds a refined savoury finish.
The menu then shifts into something more classic with the Sashimi Chef’s Selection of 5 Premium Fresh Fish & Seafood.
This is where the ingredients are allowed to speak for themselves. Five varieties of premium fish and seafood are presented with minimal intervention — a style that is fundamental to Japanese cuisine. The simpler the preparation, the more important the quality of the ingredients becomes, and this course makes that philosophy particularly clear.
For us, however, the standout of the meal was undoubtedly the Awabi.
The Ezo Abalone Tempura is served with Abalone Liver Sauce and Buckwheat Noodles. The abalone is delicately crisp on the outside from the tempura while retaining its distinctive texture inside. The real highlight is the abalone liver sauce, rich and rounded without overpowering the shellfish, bringing the components together beautifully.
It was not necessarily the dish we expected to remember most at the beginning of the meal, but it became the one we were still talking about after the last course — which is perhaps one of the pleasures of a tasting menu.
The progression becomes richer with the Beef Cheek & Foie Gras Claypot.
Featuring 36 Hours Braised Beef Cheek, Foie Gras and Truffled Koshihikari Rice, this is an indulgent course that feels like elevated comfort food. The beef cheek is slowly braised for 36 hours until exceptionally tender, then paired with foie gras and fragrant Koshihikari rice infused with truffle.
It is noticeably deeper and more substantial than the courses that come before it, creating a natural peak in the meal. For guests who do not eat beef, the kitchen can also provide an alternative dish.
The tasting menu finishes on a lighter note with Melon, White Wine Jelly & Yuzu Curd.
Fresh melon brings a clean sweetness, while the acidity of yuzu curd refreshes the palate after the richer savoury courses. White wine jelly adds fragrance and a soft, playful texture, making it a fitting finish without leaving the meal feeling overly heavy.
What makes the HASHIRI tasting menu enjoyable is that it does not simply feel like a procession of expensive ingredients. There is a clear rhythm to the experience — moments of surprise, courses where the ingredient takes centre stage, and richer dishes that gradually build towards the peak before returning to something bright and refreshing.
For those looking for a shorter daytime experience, HASHIRI also offers a Teishoku Lunch Set at THB 880, available with either beef or fish, alongside an à la carte selection for those who prefer to choose individual dishes.
HASHIRI
The Athenee Hotel, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Bangkok
Lunch: 11:30 AM – 2:30 PM
Dinner: 6:00 PM – 10:00 PM
Closed: Tuesday
Tasting Menu: THB 3,800 per person
Teishoku Lunch Set: THB 880
LINE OA: Hashiri The Athenee
Tel: 02 650 8800